Most people come to Musanze for the gorillas and leave before sunset. That is a mistake. Once the tourists return to their lodges and the evening mist begins to settle over the volcanoes, the town reveals another side of itself. Musanze may be Rwanda's tourism capital, but it is also a growing city with a lively social scene, ambitious young people, and a nightlife culture that deserves more attention.

Three months that this writer has lived in Musanze is not nearly long enough to claim expertise, but it is enough time to develop habits, favourite spots, and strong opinions. The places below are the venues we have found ourselves returning to most often. They are where friendships are made, deals are discussed, birthdays are celebrated, and long weekends come to an end.

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